Figure 10 (click image for full size version)
Please check to ensure you have all of the components of your sharpener. You should have each of the items listed here in the quantity shown in parentheses.
There are four sets of sharpening stones with attached handles. They are color coded for easy reference:
Figure 11 (click image for full size version)
Step 1 : Position the Degree Bar in the bottom channel of the Base with the numbers facing up and the detents facing the same direction as the logo on the Base as shown in Figure 12.
Step 2 : Note that only one hole in the Base is threaded. Insert the 1/2 inch Socket-Head Cap Screw into the hole in the Degree Bar that is lined up with the threaded hole in the Base. Then fasten the Degree Bar to the Base. Do not over tighten.
Step 3 : Place the Fixed Vise Jaw in the top channel of the Base, above the non-thread- ed hole in the channel.
Step 4 : Insert the 1 inch Socket-Head Cap Screw through the Degree Bar and Base and screw it into the Fixed Vise Jaw using the long end of the Vise Key.
Do not over tighten.
Figure 12 (click image for full size version)
Step 5 : Attach the Free Vise Jaw to the Fixed Vise Jaw using the Upper Vise Screw as shown in Figure 13.
Step 6 : Screw the Lower Vise Screw into the Fixed
Figure 13 (click image for full size version)
Step 7 : Slide L-bracket, Ball Joint and Guide Rod Assembly onto each end of the Degree Bar as shown in Figure 14. The Ball Joints should be facing inward toward the Vise
Figure 14 (click image for full size version)
Insert the two prongs of the Depth Key into the two holes in the Alignment Guide.
For narrow-bladed knives, insert the depth Key into the top pair of holes in the Vise. For wider blades, use the lower pair of holes.
Using the Vise Key, loosen the top screw of the Vise until the spine of your knife fits easily between the jaws of the Vise and rests on the prongs of the Depth Key.
Holding the knife so that the spine of the blade is in contact with both prongs of the Depth Key and the tip of the blade is pointing directly away from you, slide the knife forward or backward until the blade is approximately centered in the Vise, then further adjust the position of the knife until the tip is lined up with the nearest mark on the Alignment Guide.
Tighten the top screw of the Vise until the knife is lightly held in place, then tighten the bottom screw until the knife is firmly held in place. Do not over tighten! Remove the Depth Key and Alignment Guide from the Vise. For long, thin blades, such as a let knife, insert the Knife Brace into the hole in the top of the Base with the slotted end up, then place the knife into the Vise and the slot in the Knife Brace.
Loosen the thumbscrews on each L-bracket and slide them in or out along the Degree Bar until the inside edge of each L-bracket is aligned with the desired degree mark, then tighten the thumbscrews by hand. Do not use pliers.
If you’re new to sharpening, we recommend matching the existing angle of your knife. To do this, use a Sharpie® marker to color in the entire bevel on both sides. Your L-brackets should be slightly loose on the Degree Bar and free to slide in and out. Using one of your new stones, lightly rub your edge to test your angle. If the marker is removed at the top of the bevel and not the bottom, your angle is too wide. If the marker is removed from the bottom of the bevel and not the top, your angle is too narrow. Find the angle where the marker is removed evenly from the entire bevel. Then 3 tighten the bottom screw on your L-bracket to secure your Guide Rod to the Degree Bar. Repeat this step on the opposite side. Once your angle is set on both sides, record it in your knife log located at the back of these instructions.
For further assistance with angle selection, consult your knife manufacturer's recommendations, or visit the knife database on our website under the Resources section.
Correct Positioning of your Knife - Finding the “Sweet Spot.”
The easiest way to find the “sweet spot” for a given knife is to mount the knife with the blade approximately centered in the clamp and then, again, color in the entire bevel with a Sharpie marker. Lightly swipe one of the fine stones down the length of the blade to see where the marker is removed. If the stone is removing the marker from the edge along the straight portion of the blade but then dipping down into the shoulder toward the tip, you need to reposition the knife with the tip closer to the clamp. If the opposite happens – that the stone removes the marker at the shoulder of the bevel along the straight portion and then moves to the edge along the curve, then you need to reposition the knife with the tip further from the clamp. This technique will give you a consistent bevel throughout the length of the blade.
Place the top of the Red – 100 Grit Coarse Stone at against the heel of the knife. Slide the stone up and away from you, along the entire bevel of the knife. The stroke is finished when the bottom of your stone reaches the tip of your knife. Use alternating side-to-side strokes so both sides of the knife are sharpened at the same time. Sharpen until the marker is completely removed from your bevels.
Figure 8 (click image for full size version)
When you’re first sharpening a blade, successfully drawing a burr from each side of the knife is the most important step. It is very difficult to know for certain without the presence of a burr if the bevels on each side of the blade actually extend to the edge. If the bevels do not extend all the way to the edge, the edge of the knife will be blunt and the knife will not be sharp. A burr, also called a wire edge, is created as a result of sharpening metal. The burr forms on the edge of a knife where the planes of bevels intersect. The diagram to the right shows the burr projecting from the edge of the knife:
Once all the marker has been removed from the blade, try to create a burr on one side of the knife by sharpening the opposite side only. Do approximately 10 strokes on one side of your knife only and then check the opposite side for a burr. You can do this by very carefully feeling the side of the blade by rubbing your fingernail or a cotton ball up the opposite side of the knife, from the spine toward the edge. If you feel it snag on the edge, the burr has been properly formed. Make sure the burr exists throughout the entire length of the knife. Different areas of the knife may require more strokes to successfully form a burr. Do as many strokes as necessary to detect a burr along the entire edge. Once you’ve successfully created and detected a burr on one side of the knife, repeat the procedure for the other side.
Figure 9 (click image for full size version)
Once you’ve successfully created and detected a burr from both sides of the blade, sharpen your knife using alternating side-to-side strokes. Progress through your grits until you achieve the level of polish desired. Note that your stones will need time to break in. We recommend sharpening your inexpensive knives first to let your stones break in. As you spend time using your Wicked Edge Sharpener your technique will become more natural, your stones will break in, and your results will improve with every knife.
To remove the knife from the sharpener, firmly grasp the handle of the knife with one hand, while loosening the bottom screw of the Vise. Carefully remove the knife. If necessary, loosen the top screw as well.
Congratulations, you now have a Wicked Edge on your knife!